Margiela's Legacy

Martin Margiela, one of the most influential and enigmatic figures in fashion, has carved a path that remains distinct and revered within the annals of fashion history. His contribution to the menswear industry transcends trends, making him a key figure in the development of postmodern fashion aesthetics. Margiela's approach to design, which was defined by a radical deconstruction of traditional fashion practices, has profoundly impacted not only the visual vocabulary of contemporary menswear but also its cultural understanding of style, identity, and gender. This essay aims to analyse Martin Margiela’s "codes" in menswear, exploring how his approach to fashion, through conceptual design, deconstruction, anonymity, and appropriation, redefines traditional menswear tropes, making visible the hidden structures of fashion.

At the core of Martin Margiela’s philosophy lies the principle of deconstruction, a concept borrowed from the broader postmodernist critique of language and structure. In the context of fashion, deconstruction refers to the unpicking of traditional garment construction techniques, revealing the underlying processes that often go unnoticed in mainstream fashion. Margiela’s deconstructive approach to design is evident in his manipulation of form and construction. He is known for reworking the shapes of garments and revealing the raw materials or unfinished edges. For example, a coat might be presented with visible seams, or a shirt might be cut open at the collar to expose its underlying structure. This serves not only as an aesthetic choice but as a philosophical statement, highlighting the artificiality of fashion and questioning its normative codes. Another essential component of Margiela’s practice is his anonymity. The designer famously distanced himself from the media spotlight and remained largely unseen, which further contributed to his mystique. Instead of focusing on the cult of personality that often surrounds fashion designers, Margiela directed attention toward the clothing itself. His absence from the public eye can be seen as a critique of the fashion industry’s obsession with celebrity and the designer-creator, re-centring the conversation around the clothes rather than the individual. This approach suggests a broader critique of the system of fashion as a whole, where the identity of the designer becomes more important than the garment itself.

Margiela’s work is often associated with the "anti-fashion" movement, which emerged as a counterpoint to the opulent, commercialised fashion of the 1980s. In contrast to the traditional menswear norms of sleek suits, polished accessories, and the masculine ideal of tailored perfection, Margiela sought to subvert these expectations. His menswear collections often incorporated elements of "ugliness" or unrefined materials, presenting a vision of masculinity that was not tied to traditional ideals of elegance, power, and success. The concept of "anti-fashion" was integral to Margiela’s vision. He challenged the status quo by incorporating streetwear influences, second-hand clothing, and even elements of workwear and uniform aesthetics into his collections. His iconic Tabi boots - split-toe footwear originally inspired by Japanese traditional shoes, illustrated this blend of cultural references and subversion. These boots, often paired with oversized or deliberately ill-fitting garments, communicated a disinterest in adhering to the idealised forms of male elegance, instead embracing a more fragmented, personal, and performative approach to fashion. Moreover, Margiela’s work often problematized the notions of masculinity and identity within fashion. His designs blurred the lines between genders, challenging the binary distinctions that have long governed clothing. Through his use of oversized silhouettes, androgynous shapes, and unconventional styling, Margiela’s menswear called into question the performative nature of gender, suggesting that masculinity itself is a socially constructed and flexible identity. In this sense, his collections functioned as a critique of the hegemonic masculinity that defined much of traditional menswear.

One of the most significant aspects of Margiela's designs is his use of "codes"—a system of visual language that refers to the subtle, often hidden signs embedded in his garments. These codes are not immediately obvious but emerge through repeated exposure and deeper analysis. They often function as an intellectual challenge, inviting the viewer or wearer to decode the garments’ meanings and engage with the work on a deeper level. The most famous example of these codes is Margiela’s use of the white label tag. Instead of displaying a designer’s name or logo, Margiela's garments featured a simple white tag with four white stitches, creating a symbol of anonymity. This tag became a "code" for those in the know, signalling not only the brand’s identity but also its rejection of traditional designer-marketing associations. The white label tag signified a commitment to anti-commercialism and an intellectual approach to fashion that favoured substance over surface. In addition to this, Margiela used codes in the materials and techniques he employed. For instance, he often used second-hand or found materials in his collections, recontextualising them to create something new. This approach to "recycling" was not only a sustainable practice but also a commentary on the cycles of fashion consumption and waste. Margiela’s work explored the relationship between the old and the new, the familiar and the unfamiliar, offering a new lens through which to view the act of dressing. Margiela’s designs also utilised visual codes that referenced historical, cultural, and social iconographies. His use of references to military uniforms, haute couture tailoring, and subcultures such as punk or grunge brought together disparate elements of fashion history. In doing so, he called attention to the underlying structures of style and questioned how fashion constructs and communicates identity. The viewer is invited to engage with these references, uncovering layers of meaning that transcend the superficiality of trends.

In many ways, Martin Margiela’s work in menswear is about reimagining the relationship between the body and clothing. The traditional menswear silhouette, characterised by structured, tailored garments that define the male form, is disrupted by Margiela’s loose, often oversized designs that obscure the body rather than reveal it. His menswear collections frequently feature garments that suggest a "depersonalised" body - a body that is not entirely conforming to traditional ideals of male physicality or aesthetics. Margiela’s use of oversized jackets, wide trousers, and deconstructed pieces implies a new kind of masculinity that is not constrained by conventional bodily norms. The body is hidden, distorted, or made anonymous by these garments, creating a space for alternative identities to emerge. This can be interpreted as a form of empowerment, as it allows for multiple expressions of masculinity, moving beyond rigid and one-dimensional ideals. By de-emphasising the body’s contours and adopting a more fluid approach to garment construction, Margiela’s designs open up new possibilities for self-representation. Moreover, the idea of "identity" in Margiela’s collections is tied to the notion of disguise and transformation. His garments often function as a means of altering the wearer’s identity, not in a superficial way, but in a way that allows for experimentation. This transformative aspect is further explored through accessories and outerwear, which can be used to change the overall silhouette or mood of the garment. In this sense, Margiela’s clothing becomes an instrument of self-reinvention, where the wearer is free to explore new roles and identities without being bound by societal expectations.

Martin Margiela’s influence on contemporary menswear is profound. His revolutionary approach to design, his critique of traditional fashion structures, and his challenge to the norms of masculinity have left an indelible mark on the fashion world. Designers such as Raf Simons, Hedi Slimane, and Demna Gvasalia have all drawn inspiration from Margiela’s work, incorporating elements of deconstruction, androgyny, and cultural appropriation into their collections. However, it is not just the direct influence on other designers that marks Margiela’s legacy. His approach to fashion as a conceptual art form has encouraged a shift in how the fashion industry and its consumers engage with clothing. Fashion is no longer just about aesthetics and function - it is about ideas, subversion, and identity. The codes Margiela established - both visually and conceptually - continue to resonate in fashion today, making him one of the most important and enduring figures in the evolution of menswear.

Martin Margiela’s approach to menswear represents a profound critique of the conventions of fashion and masculinity. His deconstructive designs, commitment to anonymity, and use of codes have reshaped how we understand and interact with clothing. By rejecting traditional ideas of elegance and embracing a more fragmented, layered approach to identity, Margiela has opened up new possibilities for self-expression and gender fluidity in fashion. His influence continues to shape the fashion industry, and his work remains a touchstone for those interested in the intersection of fashion, art, and identity. Ultimately, Martin Margiela’s codes in menswear are not just a matter of aesthetic innovation - they are a challenge to rethink the very foundations of how we dress, present ourselves, and understand the body in contemporary society.